Sparrow / NmG
Sparrow >> Service >> Mechanical >> Doors
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Note, this is a two person job, or one person with a ceiling crane. Unless you are confident in your ability to hold a door and ratchet, proceed with caution.
so as to avoid it closing on you. There are two wires coming out of the upper hinge. These are the wires for the window motor. Use your wire cutter to clip these. We will come back to these later. While one person holds the door up, begin unbolting the door hinge from the door. It works best to just loosen all of them before fully removing them from the hinge. The top bolt can be a little tricky, due to space restrictions. Once this is done, you are finished, and other work on the door can commence.
http://enviromotors.com/wiki/uploads/Sparrow/Door%20hinge"Door hinge" | Door hinge closeup. Note the two wires coming out.
Again, note that this is a two person job.
Make sure the battery connections are off.
the four wires (two on the door, two on the hinge). Twist the wire endings together and slide the metal part of the connector on as far as it will go. Crimp the end. Pull on it to make sure it won't come off. Cut some of the heat shrink tubing to an appropriate length, and slide onto the wire. Make sure the heat-shrink covers the entire area of stripped wire. Use the heat gun to make the heat-shrink contract around the wire. Go up the entire length and around, and avoid burning it if possible. When finished, it should look as if it has melted onto the wire connection evenly. Let cool, and slide the plastic connector onto the metal until you hear the 'click'. Pull on this connection to make sure it is secure. Repeat with the other wires, using the same colored connector for the other half of the same wire for easy recognition.
reconnection process much easier. While one person holds the door up, the other can attach the bolts into the door by hand. Once all four are into the door, use the ratchet to tighten them further. Avoid fully tightening them until all of them are (nearly) fully bolted in. Finish tightening the bolts, and close the door. Check to make sure the seal lines up where you want it to. If not, loosen the bolts, and tilt the door to the desired angle and retighten. Now, connect the wires and makes sure nothing gets pinched while the door is in use. Reconnect the battery, and check the window operation and 'door open' light operation. The door is now reattached.
If the door is being removed prior to this step, than a second person will be required.
It is assumed the door has been removed already, and the interior panel has been disconnected as well.
disconnect from the door. There are rivets holding on the old seal. Either cut around them, and pull them out with the pliers, or pull them out attached to the seal. Note: the latter method may cause some minor damage to the door, though it will be hidden beneath the new seal. Once the seal has been removed, clean off the ridge the seal was attached to with water and a sponge.
Keep the extra for future use, or in case of mistakes). If in doubt, cut longer than you will need. This prevents the need to add a small, second piece to the end to complete the seal. Put the new seal on the ridge without the adhesive to stretch out the part that holds it on. Begin at the bottom in a similar location to where the old one ended. This will require patience, and strong thumbs.
nearby. Run the adhesive into the grooved portion of the seal for a couple feet, and begin pressing the seal into position. Clamp the seal to the door, such that the bulb is squished towards the 'outside' of the door. Pull off the next segment of non-glued seal from the door, and repeat. Depending on the number of clamps you have, you may need to stop partway through and allow the seal to set for 10-15 minutes.
You may then reassemble the door, and attach to the car body.